Connecting Ampy

Updated 9 October 2026Ampy

Connecting Ampy is deliberately kept simple:

  • Main supply: goes on two sturdy M6 threaded studs, positive and negative.
  • Loads: you clamp them into high-quality Phoenix lever terminals up to 4mm². Lever open, wire in, lever closed, without tools.
  • Push buttons and switches: the wires go into removable spring terminals with a two-pin plug. You can prepare these at the table and then just plug them in inside the vehicle.

12V or 24V?

Both. Ampy detects your electrical system automatically, you do not need to change anything.

Readable directly on the device

Each output has a status light: blue means power is present, red means off. This way you see the real state even when your phone battery is flat.

In the box

  • 1× Ampy
  • 4× mounting screws
  • 2× M6 terminal screws for the main supply
  • 6× two-pin plugs with spring terminals for external switches and push buttons

Related questions

Does Ampy work on 12V and 24V?

Both. Ampy detects the vehicle's electrical system automatically, so there is nothing to change.

How is Ampy connected?

The supply goes onto two M6 threaded studs, the loads into lever terminals for up to 4mm²: open, insert, close, no tools needed. The push button wires go into removable spring terminals.

How much current can an Ampy output draw?

24A continuously, up to 32A for short periods, and 120A across all six outputs combined. So even a compressor fridge, an inverter and a parking heater fit on a single output.

Do I still need to buy fuses for Ampy?

Not for the loads connected to Ampy. Every output has an electronic fuse that you adjust instead of replacing.

What happens when a fuse on Ampy trips?

The output switches off and you see it in the dashboard, including the reason. Resetting takes a single tap. If the fuse trips several times in a row, Ampy enforces a short pause so that a genuine fault is not simply glossed over.

Fast, normal or slow: which tripping characteristic should I choose?

The characteristic determines how quickly the fuse cuts out when the current is too high. As a rule of thumb: slow for anything that briefly draws more when it switches on, fast for pure electronics, normal for everything in between. • Choose slow for motors and compressors: water pump, fridge, fan, awning, pop-top roof, inverter. These loads draw several times their continuous current at the moment they switch on, which is completely normal. A fast fuse would trip every time, even though nothing is wrong. • Choose fast for loads without inrush current, such as LED strips, sensors, control units or charging sockets. Here a sudden rise in current is almost always a fault, and then it should cut out quickly. • Normal is the safe choice if you are unsure. A practical tip: if the fuse only trips at switch-on while the continuous current is fine, set it one step slower. Raising the fuse rating instead would be the wrong approach, because the rating still has to match the cable cross-section.

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